Bespoke shirts - the process
Bespoke Shirts by The Sartorial Executive
If you have never commissioned a bespoke shirt before then you may be wondering what is involved. A quick break down of a bespoke shirt service is as follows:
You would first meet with the shirt company either at their shop/workshop or if they offer a visiting service at their home. At this meeting you will discuss the type of shirt you are looking for with respect to determining the most suitable fabric type. Typically the shirt maker will have mainly cotton fabrics with a selection of linen and possibly even cashmere and wool blended with cotton - we carry over 3000 different swatches from the finest mills in Europe such as Alumo, Thomas Mason and Tessitura Monti You will also discuss the style of the shirt; particularly aspects such as the size and shape of the collar - some clients will even draw out their own collar style; anything can be accomodated with a bespoke shirt - the cuffs, plackets, gauntlets and other aspects.
After deciding on the fabric and the style your measurements will be taken, along with a discussion on the type of fit that you are looking for. Fit is a very pesonal aspect of a shirt. There is no right fit (but there are plenty of bad fits!).
After the meeting concludes all of the measurements are passed to a master pattern cutter who will draw out a bespoke shirt pattern for you on paper. This is the master pattern from which the cloth for your shirts will be cut. This is the most essential aspect of a bespoke shirt. This shirt will be kept indefinitely and will be modified and updated over the years to accomodate any change in your shape, size and weight.,
The next step is to cut the fabric, a skilled process as it is pointless having the pattern riht ifd the cutter is unable to replicate it accurately when itcomes to cutting the fabric. The shirt is then made up using skilled seamsters, professionals in their field using the finest shirt making techniques, full single needle tailoring with high density stitching.
The bespoke shirt is washed a couple of times and then it is ready for a fitting - a try on where the fit is checked and any alterations noted and accomodated. the pattern is updated as required. Only when the changes necessary have been fed back into the pattern are any future shirts made up.
The result a beautiful luxury bespoke shirt.
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